Trees come in all shapes and sizes and, not surprisingly, the attention they need to grow healthy and strong varies from species to species. After you have selected the variety of tree most suitable for your planting area and have planted it, these steps will help ensure your tree grows to a ripe old age.

Watering

Watering is a fundamental part of tree maintenance. For trees that have been newly planted, regular watering is imperative in order for the roots to grow into the surrounding soil. But determining the right amount of water is difficult no matter what the age of the tree. Roots will not grow in dry soil, but overwatering can cause roots to rot.

• To determine if watering is required, test the soil near the tree. If soil four to eight inches deep is dry or only slightly damp, the tree needs to be watered.
• Sandy soil, which tends to drain quickly, will require more water than a clay soil, which tends to hold the moisture longer .
• A tree should be watered at its base. The best method is a slow trickle from the garden hose left to run until water runs off the surface of the soil.
• Avoid short, frequent watering. This promotes a shallow root system, making the tree more vulnerable to environmental stress.
• All watering should supplement natural rainfall.

Mulching

A mulch is a mixture of porous materials which is placed around the base of a tree. A mulch is an important part of tree maintenance because it controls the flow of water to the roots, holds in soil moisture, controls weeds, and protects the tree from injuries sustained by lawnmowers and trimmers.

• Use only an organic mulch. Wood chips and bark chips make effective mulching materials. Never use plastic mulches 00 it will lead to root and trunk rot.
• Apply the mulch around the base of the tree --for trees less than 1 metre tall or less than 2.5 cm diameter the mulch should be up to 5 cm deep and for larger trees the mulch should be 10 cm deep.

Staking

Staking provides a young tree with support until the trunk is strong enough to hold its canopy upright. Careful attention must be paid to the way a tree is staked 00 if improperly done, staking can weaken a tree and cause serious damage and deformity. Most newly planted trees will grow better if they are not staked. By leaving the young tree to move freely in the wind, it will develop a better root system and a stronger, more tapered trunk.

• If you must stake your tree, always use two stakes. Place each stake on either side of the root ball, taking care not to drive the stakes into the root ball.
• Ties serve to fasten the tree to the stakes, and thereby keep the tree upright. Use ties that are broad, and made from a flexible material (such as nylon webbing or carpet strips).
• To determine the appropriate height for the ties, move your hand up the tree trunk. Stop at the point where the tree stands upright. The ties should be secured to the trunk at this place. ~ Drive each stake deep into the soil to ensure it won't move in the wind.
• The height of the stakes should only be two to three inches above the ties. If a stake is too tall, the wind will cause the tree to rub against the stake.
• Most trees will not need to be staked longer than a year. As soon as the tree can stand on its own, remove the stakes.

Fertilizing

All trees require nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium. Sometimes the soil does not contain adequate amounts of these elements, and thus fertilizing is necessary . In general, established trees require fertilization every two to three years, either in the fall (after the leaves have fallen) or in the spring (before tree buds form).

• Fertilizer can be applied to the surface or placed in the ground around the tree. Nitrogen travels easily through the soil, and thus surface application is adequate.
• Low nitrogen fertilizers are preferred to help the tree get established.
• Phosphorous and potassium do not move readily through the ground, and therefore should be applied close to the roots.
• If using fertilizer on the surface, remember to water the soil thoroughly to avoid burning.
• Nitrogen should not be applied in the late summer, unless the tree is deficient in this element. This nutrient can promote new growth which may not have a chance to harden properly before the cold winter weather sets in.
• Phosphorous and potassium are effective in the fall since these nutrients enhance winter acclimation. ~ For a newly planted tree, fertilize at the time of planting and again six weeks later. Apply the fertilizer around the tree in an area approximately three feet wide. Keep the product at least six inches away from the trunk.

Pruning

Pruning, which involves cutting back branches, is vital to a tree's health. It helps a tree to develop proper structure, and can control the size and direction of growth. If improperly done, pruning can seriously damage your tree, and lead to disease and decay.

• Pruning should be performed when the tree is dormant, never when the leaves are falling. However , trees that bleed should be pruned in August.
• All limbs or branches should be pruned if damaged or diseased, or if rubbing or crisscrossing other limbs and branches.
• When pruning, space branches evenly around the tree.
• Do not prune the top of a tree to lower its height. Instead, prune by thinning. In addition, trees with a central leader (e.g. birch, alder and most pines) should never be pruned at the top, as this ruins the tree's shape and makes it susceptible to insects and disease.
• Do not make cuts flush to the trunk or a branch. Leave a small ridge or collar (but not a stub), so that the tree will be able to heal over the cut more easily.
• In general, pruning paint is not recommended for cuts or wounds.

Protection for the Winter Months

Preparing trees for the cold months of winter must begin in the fall

• Trees should be watered thoroughly prior to the soil freezing. This will ensure the tree has adequate moisture to withstand cold, dry winds.
• Young trees or those with thin barks should be wrapped from the bottom of the trunk to the first major branch. Use a commercial tree wrap. In the spring, remove the wrap.
• For evergreens, attach a screen to the south, west or windward side of the tree to protect it from the wind and sun. A screen made of burlap or similar material is adequate.
• To protect a tree from mice, place a mesh hardware cloth or plastic drain pipe (not black) around the tree. The cylinder should be higher than the expected snow cover to hinder mice from feeding on the bark of the tree.
• To protect a tree from rabbits, commercial repellents can be used. These products can either be sprayed or painted on the trunks and branches. Depending upon the severity of the weather, it may be necessary to reapply the repellent sometime during the winter.

To properly maintain the trees you own, consult an expert --tree nurseries, arboricultural groups, etc. will provide you with all the information you'll need to look after your particular species of tree. In addi- tion, they can tell you about the most suitable trees for your needs based on soil type; size of lot; amount of sunlight, wind and moisture; and planned usage (ornamental, wind barrier, etc.).